It’s been a while since genever featured on these pages. Many of you might not care, but I apologise to those who do. Wynand Fockink recently released an impressively mature 21-year-old Barrel Aged Genever, which I’m able to review thanks to the generosity of Robbert. (You can read his thoughts here.)
Genever is still one of my favourite spirits, but the interest in it has calmed down. There are less interesting new releases, and Hooghoudt, one of the biggest champions of genever a while back, has pivoted. It doesn’t help that Gin Magazine, the publication I wrote most of my genever content for, no longer exists. Even the website is now gone.
Thankfully some producers still soldier on. The new Wynand Focking Aged Genever is a blend of 21 and 25 year old malt wine, matured in French Limousin oak casks. Botanicals have been used sparingly, which is what you’d expect for such a well-aged genever. Juniper berries of course – they are obligatory after all. Then also coriander, angelica and licorice root.
Wynand Fockink 21 Years Barrel Aged Genever (51%, OB, 2024)
Nose: Quite a delicious first impression. There’s a mixture of syrupy, herbacious and oak-forward notes that’s very pleasant. Slivers of laurel alongside just a tinge of petrichor, as well as pine resin, nutmeg and butterscotch. Then slivers of tablet, chestnuts and pollen.
Taste: Just an assortment of oak spices, led by cinnamon, but then with hints of throat lozenges and cough syrup. That may not sound very elegant, but it is. There’s a hint of coriander and licorice, as well as some caraway and agave syrup.
Finish: Medium length. The herbaceous notes linger, but there’s also a tinge of coffee beans, maybe even covered in chocolate. We’re ending things on a distinct grassiness.
Photo: Wynand Fockink
