Waterford is cruising calmer waters these days. Gone are the days of Single Farm Origins. They have an actual core range now, and today we’ll review the latest addition – the Waterford Biodynamic Cuvée Luna. Then we’ll follow that up with an exciting apéritif, the new Waterford Heritage Goldthorpe.
Way back when I first got my hands on some Waterford cask samples, it was the biodynamic spirit that impressed me most. Here’s what I wrote:
“The standout […] is the biodynamic sample. Disgustingly complex, even at such a young age. The depth is simply amazing. Also, it’s unlike any other whisky I’ve ever tasted – although I suppose this isn’t whisky yet. The fact that it matured in a very small cask, and yet the character of the spirit still oozes out of the glass, is a strong testament to biodynamics. Can’t wait to see future releases.”
Fast-forward a few years and the distillery’s first-ever biodynamic whisky was released. A milestone, although I can’t quite remember who was first: Bruichladdich or Waterford. (Looked it up, it was Waterford.)
The Waterford Biodynamic Luna 1.1 was well received, especially by the venerable Serge Valentin, but I was slightly disappointed. My expectation may have been too high. Simply put: there were other releases from Waterford that delighted me more.
One such release was the Waterford Heritage Hunter, which was introduced the year after the Luna 1.1. Talk about love at first sight! I still remember my first sniff of the Hunter at the Art of Drinks in Amsterdam. The texture was everything I could hope for. The depth and balance were properly good too. Most importantly, it had a soul.
Now there’s a successor. The Waterford Heritage Goldthorpe is the distillery’s second whisky ever from an old barley variety. Whereas the Hunter variety was first introduced in 1959, Goldthorpe barley can be traced back the 1880s. That’s when it was found as a random mutation in a field of Chevalier. The last recorded use of Goldthorpe (as far as we know) was in the 1920s.
I don’t think there’s a whisky I’ve anticipated more this year than the Waterford Heritage Goldthorpe. Tasting its predecessor was one of the more joyful organoleptic experiences of the past few years. It will be hard, if not impossible, to top that.
Waterford Biodynamic Cuvée Luna (50%, OB, 2024)
- 5 years, 1 month and 19 days old
- Grown by Alan Mooney, Trevor Harris and John McDonnell
- 37% first-fill US oak; 17% virgin US oak; 25% premium French oak; and 21% Vin Doux Naturel oak
- More on the Waterford Biodynamic Cuvée Luna here
Nose: Lots of crisp green apples, but also tarte tatin, pear skin and stewed pears. Maybe pear eau-de-vie even. Also some chalk, a good amount of maltiness and grain influence, as well as a tinge of rhubarb, pebbles and birch. Also the tiniest sliver of goût de petrol, Riesling style. Well, I say that, but it’s gone now. Anyway, could swear I detected it just there.
Taste: Fatty and oily. Just a wonderful mouthfeel, much like its heritage variety sibling. Maybe even oilier. A sliver of white pepper, lovely cereal notes, and lemon drizzle cake. Also just a tinge of Greek yoghurt. Then a hint of Williams pear and honeycomb.
Finish: Medium length. Slightly sweet, almost sugary, but that might just be the almost liqueur like texture tricking me. Then somewhat dry too. And green.
Waterford Heritage Goldthorpe (50%, OB, 2024)
- 3 years, 7 months and 5 days old
- Distilled from Goldthorpe barley
- 40% first-fill US oak; 24% virgin US oak; 18% premium French oak; and 18% Vin Doux Naturel oak
- More on the Waterford Heritage Goldthorpe here
Nose: Wonderfully barley-forward with subtle, zesty fruits and light leafy notes. There’s an excellent breadiness. Husks, notes of warm porridge, honey and some pot ale, but also tingly hints of oranges, cured lemons and tart berries. Also something slightly earthy, maybe even mineral-esque. And ginger too.
Taste: Thick, oily and mouth-coating. A pinch of pepper alongside warm apple sauce, ripe bananas and gingerbread. More bread. Whole grain, if you must know. I also get touches of straw, honeysuckle and sandalwood. Slightly dry.
Finish: Medium length. Root-y, earthy and grainy pears. Also slightly herbacious. Maybe even some fennel.
Samples provided by Waterford
Funny you saying how the Hunter was love at first sight. I remember being blown away with it as well. But perhaps because it wasn’t the first whisky of the day then. I had high expectations for the next and I wasn’t as excited about it after sampling it. But once I returned to it another time (and after my palate had tried another whisky beforehand), it’s really growing on me. I’d love to hear your thoughts again once you return to the bottle later on. Same with the Cuvee Luna (the first ever Waterford Cuvee release has been one ofy favourites btw), I’d love to hear how you find it past the neck pour…
Still very much adore the Goldthorpe and Cuvee Luna, also now that the bottles are emptier (but far from empty). I’m not a huge believer in neck pours anyway. To an extend yes, but not always. As far as the Hunter goes, that’s just become a sentimental whisky at this point.