tobermory 12yo

Tobermory 12 Years (2019)

It came as quite a surprise to me when it was announced in 2017 that Tobermory would close for 2 years. That’s how long it took for the distillery’s equipment to be refurbished and the visitor centre to receive an upgrade. When work was finally finished the distillery released a new flagship 12-year-old to mark the reopening, which I’ll review today.

Tobermory produces such interesting unpeated whisky. Not all of it is good. Far from it. Or at least, that used to be the case. I remember gifting a friend an old dumpy bottle of Tobermory 10 Years long ago and he almost recoiled in horror. I’m glad to say our friendship is stronger than terrible whisky and he is still a friend today. Although the pandemic is doing its darndest to throw a spoke into that wheel.

Anyway, I digress. Tobermory has a sort of funky flavour profile that you won’t soon encounter at any other distillery, save for maybe Ben Nevis. I’d say it’s an acquired taste. It certainly has turned out that way for me. Whereas before Tobermory (and Ben Nevis) couldn’t always convince me, lately I’ve grown quite fond of both, with Kintra’s recent release one of the highlights.

Tobermory 12 Years (46.3%, OB, 2019)

Nose: Quite earthy with a hint of sweet malt and vanilla custard, but also some orange zest. Just a tinge of copper coins and plenty of minerality. Finally a whiff of honey and subtle stone fruits.
Taste: Nice barley notes accompanied by pretty vibrant citrus flavours, quickly followed by a hit of oak shavings and spices — this is were the virgin oak makes its presence known. The whisky becomes slightly herbal and vegetal after.
Finish: Herbal, spicy and drying. Medium in length.

Score: 85

Rather rich and pretty well put together, this Tobermory is a wonderful introduction to the distillery. Less dirty than I’ve known Tobermory to be in the past, but that’s probably a good thing for me.

Photo: The Whisky Exchange

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