Teeling’s Brabazon series is a collection of Irish single malts highlighting the impact of fortified wine on whiskey. This is, of course, far from groundbreaking. The first edition focused on sherry casks, the second on port and the third on sherry again (albeit Pedro Ximénez solera casks specifically). However, the fourth edition offers something a little more compelling.
This final edition was matured in ex-Carcavelos casks. I had never heard of vinho de Carcavelos (wrongfully called Port on the label), but I’m probably not the only one. Madeira, Port and Moscatel all are much higher-profile wines and export products, while the Carcavelos region has been devastated by real estate development in the suburbs of Lisbon.
The history of Carcavelos dates back to the 15th century and in the 1930 about two dozen Carcavelos wine estates were active along the north bank of the Tagus. U.S. presidents, Chinese emperors and European royalty were said to be fans. Now it is the smallest wine appellation of Portugal and only 25 hectares remain. There’s just one active producer, Villa Oeiras.
So, very rare indeed and not surprisingly at all that it is fairly obscure. But the people over at Teeling have managed to get their hands on a number of casks, which were used to finish the Brabazon Bottling Series 04 for a period of two years, after initially maturing in bourbon casks since 2007.
Teeling Brabazon Bottling Series 04 (49.5%, OB, 2020)
Nose: Initially some green apple and port stewed pears, but also white pepper and cinnamon. Then cassis, blood orange and icing sugar. Really lovely.
Taste: Pleasant astringency. Caramel notes and some tart forest fruits as well as grapefruit. Some ginger and a pinch of white pepper again. The blood orange makes an encore as well.
Finish: Orange pith and juicy red grapes. Some bitter notes as well.
Sample provided by Teeling
