Gordon & MacPhail returns with its third edition of the Recollection Series. Last year’s range included some most impressive whiskies from closed distilleries. And the line-up for this year is promising once again, including the Rosebank 1991, Glenlochy 1979 and North Port 1981 I’ll be reviewing today.

However, I will say the new range is slightly more limited. While still spectacular and beyond the wildest dreams of most other independent bottlers, Gordon & MacPhail bottled whiskies from 6 closed distilleries for the latest Recollection Series. That almost pales in comparison with the 18 single malts from 15 closed distilleries that were bottled last year.

Here’s the entire list of whiskies included in Gordon & MacPhail’s Recollection Series #3 (including their recommended retail price):

Rosebank 1991 – RRP £2,100
Glenlochy 1979 – RRP £4,000
Convalmore 1984 – RRP £2,300
Imperial 1990 – RRP £1,650
North Port 1981 – RRP £3,850
Port Ellen 1981 – RRP £10,000

Pretty neat collection of whiskies, no? I remember interviewing Stephen Rankin about closed distilleries last year. He is Gordon & MacPhail’s Director of Prestige and grew up in Inverness. He said, “my personal life was passing Glen Mhor and Glen Albyn every day in life because it was down by my primary school. So every time I had to go into Inverness to go shop, to go the football or see friends, I’d pass those distilleries.”

It instilled a new level of appreciation distilleries that are now no longer in production. Of course, considering he’s part of the family business, that probably would have happened anyway. He conveyed a sense of responsibility to do right by closed distilleries and the people that worked there.

“Closed distilleries just add more layers and textures to the category of single malt,” he told me, likening them to antiques. “It’s like experiencing what it’s like to drive an old classic car, such as a Rolls-Royce, BMW, Bentley, or Jaguar. It’s an interesting space where it is about scarcity: ‘If I don’t drink it today, chances are I might not be able to taste it again, because it will be finished.’ That’s an added level of intrigue.”

rosebank 1991 32 years recollection series gordon macphail

Rosebank 1991 32 Years (51.2%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Recollection Series’, C#2114)

Distilled on 3 July 1991
Bottled on 18 June 2024
Matured in a first-fill bourbon barrel
Outturn of 141 bottles

Nose: Zesty, leafy, floral. A good amount of coconut, maybe gorse, but also bright notes of orange peel, passion fruit as well as some mush banana. There’s a soft grassiness too, as well as some chalk and limestone, but also a tinge of honeysuckle and butterscotch.
Taste: Decent creamy mouthfeel and slightly bready. Just a tinge of cardboard sitting alongside brighter, zesty citrus notes, as well as some exotic fruits. There’s a sliver of melted butter followed by cedar wood, honey, white pepper and cardamom.
Finish: Medium length. A sliver of oak, lingering hints of papaya and a touch of lawn clippings.

Conclusion

Lively, I would say more so than the recent official releases from Rosebank. Then again, I quite like my Rosebank from refill oak. This is a slightly different experience, yet nice also. A tad fruitier, maybe a little less austere, but also more oak. To be fair, it was more than nice. Quite exemplary actually.

north port 1981 42 years recollection series gordon macphail

North Port 1981 42 Years (50.9%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Recollection Series’, C#2072)

Distilled on 16 December 1981
Bottled on 19 June 2024
Matured in a refill American hogshead
Outturn of 132 bottles

Nose: A tad shy initially, but time helps (and a bit of handwarming). There’s a touch of lime. Maybe some kiwi too, but also a sliver of tablet, fudge and butter. Then we move on to wild flowers, acacia honey and even beeswax (albeit a little).
Taste: Decidedly old school. A distinct waxiness with a slight industrial note as well. Maybe some paraffin, probably a touch of eucalyptus. But then also hints of lemon zest, apricots, a whisper of leather, some fresh ginger and damp oak.
Finish: Medium length. Just a bit of char, Macadamia nuts and stewed pears.

Conclusion

Not like anything that’s produced these days. Or maybe I shouldn’t compare for a few more decades and wait how today’s whisky develops. Either way, you can’t quite compare it to the current prevalent styles. There’s something distinctly uncommercial about it that I quite love.

9.2

glenlochy 1979 44 years recollection series gordon macphail

Glenlochy 1979 44 Years (53.2%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Recollection Series’, C#3312)

Distilled on 13 November 1979
Bottled on 19 June 2024
Matured in a refill American hogshead
Outturn of 124 bottles

Nose: Hints of vanilla alongside a touch of mint with gentle (tropical) fruits. There are tangerines, a whisper of pear skin, some peaches and guave. Then a slight waxy touch, but also pollen and papaya.
Taste: A hint of sandalwood to start, accompanied by notes of crème caramel and a fresh ginger-y touch. But what mostly stands out are the honey-esque flavours accompanied by vibrant fruits. Lemon drops, candied fruits and green pineapple.
Finish: Medium length. A hint of tea leaves, some fennel and toasted oak.

Conclusion

I shouldn't compare these whiskies with each other, but sometimes it is hard not to. This Glenlochy is good. Really good. Maybe also the least characteristic of this trio. And that's more so saying something about the Rosebank and North Port, both of which ooze character.

Samples provided by Gordon & MacPhail