Anyone up for Highland Park? It’s never been one of my favourite distilleries, but I’m really starting to wonder why that is. Today I’ll be tasting a few different ones – two newer releases, and one from a few years ago. We’ll be starting with Whisky-Fässle, then Decadent Drinks and finally something dark from The Whisky Exchange.
Not that long ago I grew completely tired of the onslaught of secret Orkney releases. Highland Park was one of the earlier distilleries to implement this, but now it’s more common for independent bottlers to not (be able to) disclose proper provenance on a label. It used to annoy the sh*t out of me, but I suppose I’ve now gotten used to this practice.
That’s a good thing, because for a while there I ignored secret Orkney whiskies. That was probably a mistake, because they can be really good. And excellent value as well.

Orkney Single Malt 2007 13 Years (51.3%, Whisky-Fässle, 2020)
Nose: A very pristine malt. Hints of straw, barley husks and grist, but also a very precise lemon-y aroma that nicely cuts through. Soft mineral notes, mainly wet pebbles, but maybe some ozone also. Honeycomb brings some balance too.
Taste: Creamy mouthfeel, while arriving on notes of meringues, lemon peel and lime zest. Also a hint of toffee, followed by a pleasant chalkiness, a sprinkle of ashes and a pinch of white pepper. A decent salinity too.
Finish: Medium to long. Coastal (salty), gentle wood smoke and preserved lemons.

Old Orkney Malt 21 Years (52.9%, Decadent Drinks, 2024)
Nose: Very elegant with notes of damp oak, leather and cedar, as well as a combination of sweet red apple and red berries. The dunnage notes are very inviting, as is the orange peel, earthy peat (superbly gentle) and faint licorice notes.
Taste: Just wonderfully done. Slivers of heather, beef stock and orange pith, but some roasted malt as well. There’s a soft saline edge, as well as a touch of burlap, some hints of tobacco and a clever, almost syrupy sweetness. Cracked black peppercorns bring some vibrancy.
Finish: Medium length. A touch of fennel, slightly herbacious, but also just the tiniest hint of wood smoke.

An Orkney Distillery 2013 10 Years (57%, The Whisky Exchange ‘Seasons – Winter’, 2024)
Nose: Big, bold and intense. The colour gives a good indication of what to expect. Allow me to elaborate. Big hint of cocoa powder initially, accompanied by figs, treacle and sandalwood. Slightly tart at times, but some warming spices as well, mainly cinnamon, but also there’s also nutmeg. I’m having trouble recognising this as Highland Park.
Taste: Thick mouthfeel, yet dry and with just a tinge of smoke, but not much. A good chunk of dark chocolate, alongside cherries, walnuts and charred oak, as well as slivers of tobacco and even some crème de cassis.
Finish: Long. We’re ending things on pralines, dark and jammy fruits, as well a pepper-y bite. Finally some eucalyptus too.