Mortlach 1994/2015 Cadenhead
This Mortlach from Cadenhead sold out almost instantly when it was released earlier this year. One man carries a big part of the blame. I am of course talking about the most influential of all whisky bloggers, Serge Valentin. When he wrote a raving review about this Mortlach, it sent people running to the shops. Or more likely they ran to their computers, to order it online. Via a bottle share I managed to get my hands on a generous sample. Here are my thoughts on it.
Mortlach 1994/2015 (53,4%, Cadenhead, 768 bts.)
Nose: Very vegetal, with pinewood and cactus sap. Some eucalyptus, as well as some brine and wood polish. A hint of cotton candy at the end, giving it some sweetness, which greatly profits the balance.
Taste: Citrus and wood shavings with coconut and black pepper. It is slightly bitter and pretty aggressive, especially the arrival. But funnily enough it is highly drinkable.
Finish: It is warming, long and much friendlier now.
A more than pleasant Mortlach which reminds me of this bottling from Wemyss. Just a little bit more complexity would’ve sent this into the nineties in my book.
Thijs is a spirits writer and accredited liquorist from The Netherlands. He runs the blog Words of Whisky and contributes to a number of Dutch and international publications.