Mortlach 1974 23 Years (Milroy’s of Soho)
Milroy’s of Soho is a London institution that has been around for over 50 years, founded by brothers Wallace and Jack Milroy. During that time they’ve established themselves as one the early champions of single malt whisky with a global reputation. It’s location in Soho undoubtedly contributed to their status.
Although not as prolific as some of the larger independent bottlers, over the years Milroy’s of Soho bottled numerous whiskies, including some sought after mid-60s Springbank. I couldn’t get my hands on one of those, but the whisky I’m reviewing today isn’t too shabby either. From a distillery close in reputation to Springbank, this Mortlach 1974 has aged for 23 years—it was bottled when I was just a small 12-year-old lad.
Mortlach 1974 23 Years (50.3%, Milroy’s of Soho)
Nose: It is somewhat shy at first, but comes to life after a while. There are notes of wax, melted butter and eucalyptus, supported by dry oak. In the background some flower honey, as well as subtle traces of limoncello, orange zest and minerals. Really rather good.
Taste: So very polished and truly good. The waxiness is off the charts, but there’s wood polish, slightly bitter herbs, a touch of aniseed and a good amount of honey and barley husks as well. Soft notes of lemon peel and pear too. Memorable stuff.
Finish: Oily and waxy and more of the above. Long.
This is one that will stay with me for a while. The nose had enough to offer on its own, but this Mortlach really came alive once I finally took a first sip. What a treat!
Thijs is a spirits writer and accredited liquorist from The Netherlands. He runs the blog Words of Whisky and contributes to a number of Dutch and international publications.