MacNair’s Lum Reek Peated Small Batch, 12 Years & 21 Years (2020)
A review of the MacNair’s range has been long overdue. I first heard about Billy Walker’s plans for this range in early 2018, when I visited GlenAllachie for an article on Scotchwhisky.com. He acquired the rights to MacNair’s as part of the GlenAllachie deal with Chivas. At the time he said, “we’re going to launch [it] as a blended malt, or as I would know it as an old man, as a vatted malt.”
Cue the end of 2018 and true to his word, Billy Walker presented a trio of new, richly peated vatted malts. The no-age-statement expression has been matured in first-fill ex-bourbon, Oloroso sherry, virgin oak and red wine casks. The 12-year-old is created from whiskies matured in first-fill bourbon, ex-red wine and Pedro Ximénez casks. Finally, the 21-year-old has spent time in ex-Oloroso casks, virgin oak and red wine casks.
It’s not quite clear which malt whiskies are included in the MacNair’s recipe, although Billy Walker lifted part of the veil in a recent blog post. “In terms of the peated malts in MacNair’s Lum Reek, there is some Islay Peat, and surprisingly some Mainland peat from a distillery which would surprise even the most informed consumers who know a lot about malt whiskies and what various distilleries have released over the last five, ten fifteen, twenty years. I would prefer not to disclose the name of the distillery, but personally it was a surprise that The GlenAllachie Distillers Co could get access to this distillery and style. So, there are definitely one or two very big surprises in there!”
I find blended malts an interesting, maybe even underutilized whisky category that allow a master blender to really tap into their creativity. If done right, it should lead to new and sometimes even unexpected layers of complexity.
MacNair’s Lum Reek Peated Small Batch (46%, OB, 2020)
Nose: Sweet peat smoke with notes of vanilla, lemon peel, bran and draff, but also a whiff of tobacco, heather and hemp rope.
Taste: Pleasantly smoky with a touch of charcoal and diesel, but also somewhat salty and with bright citrus zest.
Finish: A whisper of rubber, peat and barley sugar. Medium in length.
Score: 83
A straightforward peated malt that’s clearly very balanced, but could do with a little more complexity. Easy sipper.
MacNair’s Lum Reek Peated 12 Years (46%, OB, 2020)
Nose: Very light and gentle peat with a nice earthy touch, but also apricots, vanilla pods and peaches. There’s a whisper of melted butter and pralines, with just a touch of damp oak and prunes.
Taste: Creamy texture. Good balance between the sherry and peaty notes. The subtle spices (pepper, nutmeg) enhance the dried red fruits, creosote and diesel oil.
Finish: More of the above with a slight winey edge. Long.
Score: 85
More depth and richness compared to it’s younger sibling. Certainly less smoky also, the extra maturation has worked well here.
MacNair’s Lum Reek Peated 21 Years (48%, OB, 2020)
Nose: Slightly green but with subtle smoke, cigar tobacco and touches of sandalwood, but also notes of vanilla, orange peel, sultanas and peaches. Finally just a touch of menthol and cocoa powder. Clearly the most mature of the three.
Taste: Velvety and buttery, there’s a good amount of leather and tobacco, combined with gentle pepper and pleasing oaky notes. A whisper of honey, chocolate and fudge too.
Finish: Lingering spices and a touch of pralines.
Score: 89
A high-quality blended malt by Billy Walker that shows its age in all the right ways.
Conclusion
Working through the MacNair’s range, the whiskies show a natural progression. From a fairly straightforward (despite the creative cask recipe) young peater to an elegant and mature malt whisky with subtle smoke influences. Each is a quality product, but the MacNair’s 21 Years clearly steals the show.
Samples provided by The GlenAllachie Distillers Co
Thijs is a spirits writer and accredited liquorist from The Netherlands. He runs the blog Words of Whisky and contributes to a number of Dutch and international publications.
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