Starting production in 2017, Kanosuke is one of the many new wave distilleries in Japan. Yet its history dates back all the way to 1883. That’s when parent company Komasa Jyoza first made shochu. This history influences Kanosuke’s approach to whisky production. For example, the Kanosuke 2023 Limited Edition didn’t just mature in ex-sherry casks, but also ex-shochu casks.
The distillery is named after Kanosuke Komasa, the second generation company president who created ‘Mellowed Kozuru’, the rice shochu Komasa Jyozo is known for. It’s a type of shochu matured in oak barrels, which at the time was a pioneering method. Unique even.
Yoshitsugu Komasa, the current CEO and master blender, but also fourth generation of the Komasa family, spent years trying to sell Mellowed Kozuru abroad, but never succeeded. That’s what ultimately led to the decision to start making whisky, a category more accepted and well-known globally.
Kanosuke Distillery is not huge, but still a serious operation with ten washbacks of 7,000 litres each, as well three stills of different sizes and with different lyne arm angles. Interestingly, they use indoor worm tubs to condense the spirit. It’s a rarity for Japan, according to the Japanese Whisky Yearbook. This technique is also used on Komasa Jyoza’s shochu stills.
Just seven years in and Kanosuke is an established brand, thanks in part due to the minority investment by Diageo’s drinks accelerator Distill Ventures. Last year they released their first peated whisky, which is the Kanosuke 2023 Limited Edition I’m reviewing below. I would expect there to be a successor soon, but nothing has been announced yet (as far as I know).
Kanosuke 2023 Limited Edition (59%, OB, 2023)
Nose: Very malt-centric. Slightly farmy (with notes of manure). And there’s an ashy peatiness that really stands out. But then the notes of brown sugar, cocoa powder and dates add a whole new layer. And it is very meaty too. Maybe even a touch of sulphur.
Taste: Yeah, definitely some struck matches, while that ashiness from the nose translates to the palate as well. Again, meaty whisky. And big. Nothing elegant about it. There’s a soft herbaciousness here, but also cinnamon and milk chocolate. Then some mocha and coffee liqueur.
Finish: A long, peaty embrace. Hints of soot, some charcoal and smoked strawberries.
