Glenturret 1989 29 Years (Signatory Vintage)
While I’ve yet to be properly convinced by their younger releases, I’ve been thoroughly impressed by older, independent whiskies from Glenturret. The distillery has new owners though, a holding that includes luxury goods business Lalique Group, a name I (and I assume other whisky enthusiasts as well) mostly associate with the expensive Lalique decanters used for some Macallan releases.
As far as I know, Glenturret plans to release a new range of single malts this year, although the COVID-19 crisis might’ve changed matters. To help them to so, they’ve enlisted the help of two Macallan stalwarts, former creative director Ken Grier and ex-master whisky maker Bob Dalgarno. It seems inevitable that Glenturret goes down the luxury road and it’ll be interesting to see if they manage to claim a little piece of the crowded premium Scotch whisky market.
For now though, I’ll gladly defer to the independent bottlers. Especially Signatory Vintage seems to own quite the parcel of late 1980s Glenturret. The Glenturret I review today is bottled at a deceptive 46 percent, that is actually cask strength in this case. It has matured in a (presumably ex-bourbon) hogshead.
Glenturret 1989 29 Years (46%, Signatory Vintage, C#231)
Nose: Surprisingly malty at first, not unlike a 100% Schiedam maltwine genever. Bits of muesli, pickled lemon, banana and green apple, with a touch of aniseed as well. Elegant and moreish.
Taste: Oily and waxy. A little brighter and more vibrant than the nose, with an emphasis on citrus fruits like pink grapefruit and lemon zest. A whiff of vanilla custard and peanut brittle. Rather fantastic stuff.
Finish: More of the above. Lingering.
Really great stuff. Not the first time old Glenturret leaves a great impression.
Thijs is a spirits writer and accredited liquorist from The Netherlands. He runs the blog Words of Whisky and contributes to a number of Dutch and international publications.