Glendronach recently underwent a redesign that wasn’t unanimously well received. But instead of piling on more criticism, I figured this was the perfect moment to travel back in time. Today I’m reviewing two older releases, a Glendronach 12 Years ‘Original’ from the 1980s, followed by a Glendronach 15 Years ‘100% Matured in Sherry Casks’ from the 1990s.
Both whiskies predate the current Brown-Forman era by many decades, as well as the much heralded Billy Walker period. I’ve no exact distillation date for either of the Glendronach whiskies, but the Glendronach 12 Years was bottled when William Teacher & Sons owned the distillery – so it’s likely distillate from the 1970s, possibly the late 1960s.
There were different versions of the Glendronach 12 Years in the 1980s. The ‘Original’ we’re tasting today is clearly less sherry-forward than another 12-year-old Glendronach from the same decade, which proudly mentions ‘Matured in Sherry Casks’ on the front label. There was also a dumpy bottle with green glass, which I’ve never been privileged enough to try.
The Glendronach 15 Years ‘100% Matured in Sherry Casks’ was first introduced in 1991, when it replaced the aforementioned sherry-matured 12-year-old Glendronach. Many whisky drinkers associate the 15-year-old age statement with the Glendronach 15 Years ‘Revival’, which was an homage by Billy Walker to the 15-year-old from the 1990s.
Glendronach 12 Years ‘Original’ (43%, OB, 1980s)
Nose: Plenty of polishes, some beeswax and a tinge of linseed oil. There’s a hint of bung cloth, as well as a variety of summer fruits lingering in the background. Oranges stand out, but also most certainly tinned peaches, maybe even dried apricots. All very civilised and sophisticated. And there’s a soft minerality too.
Taste: Such an old-school experience. And I’m not just saying that. It’s all in the mouthfeel. Very waxy, and there’s olive oil as well. Then some dried orange peel, honey, and eucalyptus. Hints of oat-y porridge and almonds, as well as wonderful dryness. Not tannic necessarily. Just dry.
Finish: Medium length. Tea leaves. Drying still. Furniture polish too. And waxes.
Glendronach 15 Years ‘100% Sherry Casks’ (40%, OB, 1 Litre, 1990s)
Nose: Very seductive. Rather juicy. Hints of fresh apples alongside mirabelle plums, prunes and raisins. Also touches of dark chocolate and pralines, as well as a syrupy cherry reduction. There’s a hint of bay leaves too, alongside a meaty umami element. Ending on damp oak and just a subtle char note.
Taste: Slightly oily. Classic sherry notes of raisins, dark plums, chocolate and a hint of mochaccino. There’s just a tinge of black pepper in the background, as well as some gentle herbal, aniseed-y notes. Also a whisper of leather and Demerara sugar. Not too complex, but you won’t hear me complain.
Finish: Medium length. More chocolate. Some oak.
Photos: WhiskyAuctioneer
