Glenburgie from the mid to late 1990s is one of those “if you know, you know” sort of whiskies. It stands out for its bright, fruity flavour profile, which resonates with lots of single malt enthusiasts – it certainly does with me. Today we’re lucky enough to taste three different examples from Milroy’s of Soho, Gordon & MacPhail and Signatory Vintage.

Rarely promoted as a single malt, Glenburgie is one of the key ingredients of Ballantine’s. That quickly becomes clear looking at the distillery, which is branded with the Ballantine’s name rather than its own. A bit strange maybe, but fine by me. (Not that Pernod Ricard cares what I think.)

Glenburgie isn’t some hugely undiscovered gem that I desperately want to keep hidden for myself, but it also isn’t a mainstream whisky. If it weren’t for independent bottlers, no one would be bothered about Glenburgie. I love that they’ve put a spotlight on the potential of Glenburgie for those that care. I count myself among that group.

Glenburgie 1995 27 Years (52.3%, Milroy’s of Soho, C#6723)

Nose: It has that bright, vibrant, fruity profile I’m looking for. There’s certainly a distant tropicality, but mainly fresh apples, tinned apricots and then a sliver of beeswax too. Also some fudge and sandalwood. Maybe chalk? Either way, all good so far.
Taste: What was more of a distant tropical influence in the nose, has become a big, fat, juicy tropical note on the palate. There’s a slightly bitter oakiness too, maybe a faint grassiness, but also hints of honey, mango, caramel-glazed apple and apricot, as well as some melon.
Finish: Medium to long. A slight herbaceous hint, some fennel and a lingering vanilla-esque note. Then we’re ending things of ripe orchard fruits.

Conclusion

Living up to already high expectation, this Glenburgie 1995 from Milroy’s of Soho is almost exactly what I’ve come to expect. Not as fruity as the most tropical early 1990s Irish malts, but certainly in the same sort of realm, albeit slightly more austere.

9.1

glenburgie 1996 28 years gordon macphail connoisseurs choice whisky exchange 5816

Glenburgie 1996 28 Years (54.8%, Gordon & MacPhail for ‘The Whisky Exchange’, C#5816)

Nose: Immediate notes of mango, Galia melon and some green pineapple. There’s a tinge of fudge, maybe even a hint of thyme, but also buttery brioche and some vanilla custard. We’re ending things on some fresh, cloudy apple juice.
Taste: Oily mouthfeel, which I always welcome. There’s a sprinkle of white pepper to begin, but then waves of warm apple sauce, some cinnamon, apfelstrudel and creamy vanilla, but also tinned pineapple and peaches.
Finish: Medium to long. Gentle baking spices, some honeycomb and chalk. Finally a hint of milk chocolate.

Conclusion

Maybe not as outspoken as the Milroy’s, which could be due to this coming from a refill bourbon barrel. I would say it is almost as good though. Still available here.

glenburgie 1996 28 years signatory vintage 10

Glenburgie 1995 28 Years (54.5%, Signatory Vintage, C#10)

Nose: Immediate hints of Demerara sugar, chocolate and slivers of burlap. All very delicate and light, I might add. Given its mostly aromas of also ripe apples and blackcurrants that stand out, complimented by some canned apricots and gentle citrus peels.
Taste: Creamy mouthfeel. There are touches of milk chocolate, caramel and red apple skin, but then also cinnamon buns and orange peels. There are sliver of tropical fruits hiding in the background, with a gentle fennel note lingering.
Finish: Medium length. Soft baking spices and hints of vanilla, as well as a touch of mango and milky coffee.

Conclusion

It's really, really good. But it's just not ex-bourbon matured Glenburgie, is it? Maybe I rate this slightly lower because of my own proclivity for (tropical) fruit notes in whisky. The Oloroso sherry hogshead dampens some of that brightness, even though it is a second-fill cask.

8.9