ncnean dalrymple mortlach watt whisky review

Dalrymple / Mortlach / Nc’nean (Watt Whisky)

I don’t think Watt Whisky needs an introduction anymore. Run by wife and husband team Kate and Mark Watt, this Campbeltown-based independent bottler recently released a range of new single casks, three of which we’ll be reviewing today.

They’re all interesting in their own way. There’s a Lowland malt, a (not very) undisclosed Speysider, and an entry from the Western Highlands. I’m especially looking forward to the latter, which was distilled at Nc’nean. Not so much because I have high expectations, but mostly because I hope it turns out to be good. To be fair though, it doesn’t instill much confidence that is has been matured fully in an STR cask.

The Lowland malt was distilled at Ailsa Bay, the behemoth malt distillery from William Grant & Sons in Ayrshire. The whisky, dubbed Dalrymple, is officially designated a blended malt, which only means it is teaspooned. For all intents and purposes, I consider it to be a single malt nonetheless. Assuming it actually is teaspooned it will only contain a trace amount from another distillery.

Finally, the undisclosed Speysider was produced at Mortlach. This hasn’t been communicated by Watt Whisky and there’s no mention of the distillery on the label, but all intel points to Mortlach. For example, The Whisky Exchange doesn’t even try to hide this whisky’s provenance.


dalrymple 2012 11 years watt whisky ailsa bay review

Dalrymple 2012 11 Years (57.1%, Watt Whisky, 294 bts.)

Nose: Comforting notes of porridge with honey and maybe some tart berries as well. Certainly a touch of lemon drizzle cake, a sliver of marshmallows and even a tinge of rhubarb. There are slivers of warm apple sauce too, but then green walnuts also.
Taste: An initial hit of nuts and spices, not my preferred style per se. I find it improves hugely with some water. Thick mouthfeel with a nice chunk of vanilla foam blocks, but also fresh orchard fruits, crème brûlée and even tinned pineapple.
Finish: Medium length. Gentle notes of white pepper linger, but are balanced out by notes of peach, peanuts and honey.

Conclusion
At the risk of sounding obtuse, it seems like William Grant & Sons know what they’re doing. (There’s a reason they are the biggest family-owned whisky company in Scotland.) They’ve hit a bulls-eye with Ailsa Bay it seems.
8.6

speyside 2009 15 years watt whisky mortlach review

A Speyside Distillery 2009 15 Years (54.9%, Watt Whisky, 318 bts.)

Nose: It certainly fits the Mortlach bill. Very distillate driven. Meaty (but not overtly so) with hints of quince, apple and Galia melons. There’s a touch of copper coins, it’s a tad yeasty (in the best way) and even floral at times, yet the malty cereal notes take over after a while. I love that.
Taste: Fatty mouthfeel with a fair amount of chili, walnuts and barley. Also more apples, but this time some citrus too. Mostly just lemon zest, maybe a bit of pith also. Then chalk, a tinge of liquorice and finally a hint of honey.
Finish: Medium length. A lingering nuttiness, slight leafiness and gentle fruits.

Conclusion
It feels like it’s been a while since I tried Mortlach like this. That’s my mistake. This is excellent, robust single malt from a distillery with a deservedly high reputation.
8.7

ncnean 2018 6 years watt whisky review

Nc’nean 2018 6 Years (57.1%, Watt Whisky, 282 bts.)

Nose: The STR cask is in the driver’s seat. Sweet fruits and gentle floral notes. Hints of blackcurrants, peaches and dates and a sliver of custard. Also a hint of oak char, some cinnamon and a touch of brioche, followed by fresh ginger, orange marmalade and eucalyptus.
Taste: Big whisky. Or intense more like. Lots of pepper, cloves and oak spices in general. There’s a touch of fudge, but also a slight vinous edge. Then oranges, apricots and more charred oak, followed by chillies and a soft aniseed-y note.
Finish: Medium length. Lingering spiciness with dried plums and cinnamon. Hints of peanuts and almonds too. Ending on sweet apples and a hint of grainy pear.

Conclusion
It relies a lot on the STR cask, and I'm not sure that is a good thing. I've mentioned it before and I'll say it again: I so want to like Nc'nean, but I've yet to be truly convinced. Maybe once the spirit reaches middle age (which is quite some years away) we'll look at Nc'nean very differently. Now I'm just not so sure. I'm sorry if that sounds harsh.
7.8

Samples provided by Watt Whisky

Photos: The Whisky Exchange

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