Over the years I’ve rarely written about releases from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. We’ll do a bit of catching up today, with a Dalmore, Auchentoshan, Tobermory and Tormore. Each has matured in either a first-fill or second-fill bourbon cask.
I have a lot of appreciation, even love for the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, but I’m not a member. I just can’t reconcile paying a membership fee to be allowed to buy bottles. There already are so many other releases to choose from, the bottlings from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society would have to be of exceptional quality or value.
Let’s see if maybe I can be convinced today…

Tormore 2006 17 Years (54.9%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #105.43)
Nose: Orchard fruits, very much so. Mostly just apples, both stewed an fresh, or as part of warm apfelstrudel with vanilla sauce. Either way, lovely aromas. There’s also a tinge of lime, a soft chalkiness, walnuts, and some gentle caramel notes, maybe to drizzle over apples. How ’bout them apples?
Taste: Creamy mouthfeel with a pinch of white pepper, as well as some coconut shavings, more walnuts, a yellow cake and peanut skins. Water brings out some soft brown sugar notes, as well as a tinge of Galia melon and something ever so slightly perfume-y.
Finish: Medium length. Ripe apples and something distinctly leafy/grassy.

Tobermory 2008 15 Years (55.9%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #42.84)
Nose: The power of suggestion? It helps, probably, but there is a clear sort of mentholated quality here. It’s funky in that Tobermory way, with just a tinge of brass in the background, yet also breakfast cereals, something slightly floral and some lemon custard as well. Finally a hint of bung cloth accompanied by mulch.
Taste: This’ll coat the inside of your mouth. There’s a clear sort of earthy element, decidedly uncommercial, yet industrial. Hints of fudge too, as well as brioche buns, some eucalyptus and green olives. I mustn’t forget to mention the cracked black peppercorns and faint sprinkle of cooked fruits.
Finish: Medium length. Buttery notes with hints of apple slices that have just started browning. That’s very specific, I know, and I apologise.

Auchentoshan 2013 10 Years (60.8%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #5.138)
Nose: A quick hint of acetone. Let’s wait a little longer. Ready? Okay. No more acetone, but instead hints of lawn clippings, candied lemons and a tinge of cotton candy. Much, much better. Also some distant notes of stone fruits, kiwi and crème caramel.
Taste: Quite aggressive, loads of white pepper, but the bite is not insurmountable. There’s a vanilla sweetness accompanied by some grassy bitterness, grainy pear and melons. Water brings out a pleasant creaminess, counteracting the high strength, but also enhances the leafiness.
Finish: Medium length. Slightly leafy, hints of processed sugar and a touch of fennel.

Dalmore 2012 9 Years (65.6%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #13.96)
Nose: Not inelegant. The high strength is (surprisingly) not much an issue. Opens up on notes of coconut with a slight tinge of citrus, followed by cardamon, icing sugar and vanilla pods. There’s a sliver of tinned peaches as well, which is nice.
Taste: Creamy, but much more brutal now. Spicy, pepper-y arrival with notes of hazelnuts, green walnuts and oak shavings. Water brings out a hint of triple sec, but mostly ripe bananas and sugary tablet. But you’re never forgetting this is a high-octane kind of whisky.
Finish: Short to medium. A sliver of white chocolate, more pepper and certainly also oak-y and nutty flavours.
Photos: SMWS.eu
“I just can’t reconcile paying a membership fee to be allowed to buy bottles.”
Nor can I. The biggest (I think) whisky club in Australia justifies its membership fee with a promise to release new whiskies every month you’ve never tried before!
I can get the same outcome choosing whiskies every month from my ever-increasing wish lists at the major online retailers.