When thinking about the preamble for my review of the Dalmore 12 Years, I came to the realisation that I don’t have much of a connection to the brand. Such a shame, because that makes this a more clinical tasting experience.
My first memory of Dalmore is vivid. When my whisky passion was still in its infancy, I visited a nearby shop. There were loads of Rare Malts on the upper shelf, but at the time I couldn’t see myself spending that much money on a single bottle. Instead, I was inevitably drawn to a dumpy bottle with a shiny stag’s head – the Dalmore 12 Years.
For as much as whisky geeks like to trash-talk Dalmore, be it for their luxury approach or happy-go-lucky attitudes towards E150a, there’s no denying the bottle design is a piece of art. It stands out on the shelf (and then some), and I understand why it’s appealing to the average drinker. It was to me as well.
However, once I bought a bottle and opened it at home, it failed to leave a lasting impression. It was the first and last Dalmore I ever bought. For as often as I’ve driven past the distillery on the A9, I never felt the urge to take a left turn and actually visit Dalmore. Maybe I should have, because I suspect the visitor centre will be less accessible once it reopens next year.
The Dalmore is currently undergoing an extensive expansion. Capacity will double to 9 million litres of pure alcohol once the new twin still house is ready, built on the site of the now demolished Saladin box maltings (out of use since the 1980s). There’s £40 million being spent on the project.
A new visitor centre is also part of the expansion. Currently, there’s an ominous message on the Dalmore’s website, saying “The Dalmore distillery is closed to visitors until a new experience opens in spring 2025. Availability will be limited and we recommend you subscribe below to be notified as soon as we begin taking reservations.”
It’s the part in bold that makes me fear the visitor experience will be similar to the ones available at the new Brora and Port Ellen distilleries. They are aimed at the super-wealthy, or those less wealthy willing to spend stupid money on a distillery tour. I’m not part of either group.
Should my suspicions be true, I suppose my chances of visiting Dalmore have diminished significantly. And with it my chances of forming a connection with the brand. I’ll take responsibility. I just should have visited earlier.
Without further ado, here’s my review of the Dalmore 12 Years.
Dalmore 12 Years (40%, OB, 2023)
Nose: An inviting, zesty start with touches of orange peel, but there are also hints of chestnut, just a whiff of cinnamon and some elderflower liqueur as well. The oak is somewhat present too. There’s ginger, some crème caramel and allspice.
Taste: Hints of candied oranges, creamy caramel and some resin, as well as a few drops of triple sec and cinnamon buns. Finally burnt toast, a tinge of chocolate and a gentle bitterness. It all sounds nice enough, and it is mostly enjoyable, but also somewhat weak and thin at times.
Finish: Short. Strong breakfast tea, as well as coffee beans and a soft leafiness.
Photo: Brühler Whiskyhaus
A waste of distillate, casks, packaging and time (12 years!). The Scottish whisky industry at its most dull, unimaginative, miserly, wasteful, stuck-in-the-past, braindead. Bottle at higher strength, don’t add spirit caramel, don’t chill-filter – and don’t use all that as an excuse to charge ridiculous prices. Thank goodness for the independents, and a few made-it-into-the-21st-century producers who give us wonderful and affordable OBs such as the Bunnahabhain 12.