Reviewing two hand filled whiskies is not necessarily a public service, as many of the articles on Words of Whisky are. You can’t buy the Clynelish 12 Years Hand Filled or Talisker 9 Years Hand Filled unless you visit the distillery. But guess what? I’ll be at Clynelish soon, so this little exercise was actually insightful for me.
Having tasted the Clynelish, I’d quite like to add a bottle to my collection (or of whatever batch is current available at the distillery). But I’m slightly hesitant, because the hand filled exclusives at Diageo distilleries are famously expensive. The person who kindly shared these samples told me the Clynelish cost 130 pounds. That’s stupid money – although slightly less stupid than the original price for last year’s Clynelish for the Special Releases.
A hand filled exclusive should be a reward for supporters of your brand making the long trek to your distillery. In some cases that’s still the case, but in most cases they are just another way of selling overpriced whisky to consumers. It’s like Travel Retail in a way, designed to lure bored travelers into some retail therapy amongst limited choice.
Many hand filled exclusives are made to take advantage of whisky enthusiasts who’d like a memento of their visit. I don’t like being taking advantage off, but I’ll also succumb in the right circumstances. What are those? First, the visit must be memorable, which I’m not sure it will be with the new hypermodern Clynelish visitor centre. Second, the whisky must be good, which I’m quite sure of it will be.
Clynelish 12 Years Hand Filled Distillery Exclusive (57.5%, OB, Batch 2023/007)
Nose: A slight vegetal note at first, then it’s onwards and upwards. An undeniable waxiness accompanied by ozone, wet pebbles, Madeira cake and hemp rope. Also lemon drizzle cake, a hint of apricot and quince.
Taste: Classic Clynelish. All the beeswax you could need, but also Werther’s Original, a hint of ginger, more citrus notes (specifically lemons), and white pepper. Ending on mineral touches.
Finish: Medium length. More of the above, but with a slight bitterness.
Talisker 9 Years Hand Filled Distillery Exclusive (54.5%, OB, Batch 2024/005)
Nose: Maturation in a rejuvenated ex-red wine cask. Should be interesting at least. A whisky with two faces. One is quite heavy, more intense. Plenty of brine, some cured meats, a tinge of smoked paprika powder and also cloves. The other is lighter, more ethereal. It’s relatively light in peat, and there are some bananas here, as well as creamy vanilla and toasted bread.
Taste: Rather classic Talisker. The mouthfeel is creamy. Not too far removed from some other recent releases, such as the Wilder Seas. Meatier though, and somewhat vinous at times. Notes of campfire, sweet red fruits and salt. Also a decent pinch of pepper and a not insignificant amount.
Finish: Medium to long. More pepper, gentle coastal influences and soft medicinal notes.
Photos: Whisky Auctioneer