As a whisky country, the Netherlands is much like many other countries on the European mainland. We have a lot of whisky distilleries, but most will never go beyond any regional prominence. Bus Whisky Distillers could make a national impact – maybe even more. Today I review the Bus Whisky’s Single Cask Batch 27 and their new Pedro Ximénez release.
Bus Whisky Distillers is part of de Heische Hoeve, a farm with a restaurant, accommodation, and yes, a distillery too. The impressive operation is the result of its owners’ desire to prove that sustainable farming is possible without heavily relying on government subsidies. Co-owner Dennis Hurkmans grew up on the farm, and worked for the Ministry of Agriculture, where he met his partner Ezra Leegers. They now run the farm together.
I had heard of Bus Whisky before. I had tasted Bus Whisky. But I had never visited the distillery. Until a few months ago. The story of Bus Whisky Distillers is fascinating. Although now one of the more prolific whisky distilleries in the Netherlands, Dennis and Ezra basically stumbled into building one.
Out of frustration over a supermarket contract for their home-grown cherries, they decided to buy a pot still and start making kirsch. Turns out, not many Dutch people buy kirsch, a surprise to almost no one but the entrepreneurial owners. The cherry venture was soon abandoned.
Next, Dennis and Ezra started growing malting barley for a local brewery, which soon after went out of business. That left them with a surplus of grains. Instead of having to sell it as cattle feed, Dennis made a hop-free beer and distilled it. This was in 2016. Without realising it, he had made new make spirit.
Many years and several rounds of crowdfunding later, Bus Whisky Distillers is an established entity. Production is now left in the capable hands of head distiller Marcel van Roessel. A new pot still was installed earlier this year. Most importantly, the distillery runs fully on green power. The ambition is to produce the most sustainable whisky in the world.
To celebrate the distillery’s new pot still, a small batch single malt whisky was released. It matured in two Pedro Ximénez quarter casks from Tonneleria Rodriguez in Córdoba. I’ll be reviewing it below, but first, let’s take a closer look at one of the distillery’s Single Cask releases. Bus Whisky never really created a core range, but instead released single cask after single cask. I’ll be tasting Batch 27.
Bus Whisky Single Cask (52%, OB, Batch 27)
Nose: Opening up on faint farmy notes, as well as touches of eucalyptus, some tart apple sauce, and slivers of sandalwood. Then touches of straw, syrupy pancakes and crème caramel. Not very expressive at first, but it develops nicely.
Taste: Slightly astringent. The oak has left an imprint here. Hints of resin, but also a whisper of mead, dried apricots and a sliver of mint. The grain is also making an appearance.
Finish: Medium length. Somewhat tannic, then vanilla-esque sweetness and oak shavings.
Bus Whisky Pedro Ximénez (63.5%, OB, 2024)
Nose: Plenty of charred oak, some allspice and sandalwood. There’s a sliver of almond oil too, as well as coffee grounds, figs and raisins. And chocolate too. This is mostly about the cask, but there are some notes of dry hay and heather flowers as well.
Taste: Rather viscous, but also quite a few tannins with notes of marshmallow, marzipan and candied foam blocks (it’s a Dutch thing). Also some teak wood, mocha, nougat and liquorice. Gentle oak spices.
Finish: Medium to long. Dry, somewhat spicy and a good amount of sweet Pedro Ximénez influence. Also more oak char. Almost wood smoke.
Samples provided by Bus Whisky
