It took me a while to get my hand on a sample of Bruichladdich The Biodynamic Project. Now, finally, thanks to a generous fellow whisky enthusiast, I’m able to review this highly anticipated whisky.
Why didn’t I just buy a bottle? There’s a simple one-word answer: Brexit. It really is a bitch (excuse my language) to order any alcohol from the UK. It’s even a gamble when companies send me review samples. Sometimes I’ll receive invoices from the courier company, asking me to pay tax and duty for whisky I had never asked for, let alone ordered myself.
And I don’t mean to come across as ungrateful for receiving “free whisky”. It’s just that these experiences have made me decide to never buy whisky from the UK anymore. After all, there’s a plethora of choice here in the Netherlands and EU.
But enough complaining. Bruichladdich’s The Biodynamic Project is only the second ever biodynamic whisky released. Waterford beat them to it, but not by much. And it’s probably fair to say that The Biodynamic Project is the first-ever biodynamic whisky made. After all, it was fully distilled in 2011, while the Waterford Luna 1.1 is barely three years old.
There’s a lot more information about The Biodynamic Project in this news article I wrote earlier. And I’ve had some interesting conversations about biodynamics with Mark Reynier. But I also suggest you read this balanced article on InsideHook, which shines a light on some of the more controversial aspect of biodynamics.
And now, finally, my review…
Bruichladdich The Biodynamic Project (50%, OB, 2021)
Nose: Notes of oat cookies, juicy melon, dried apricots and band aids, but also brown sugar, vanilla pods and gooseberry, as well as warm apple sauce and light floral touches. Finally just a whiff of cumin and quinces. Taste: A rather juicy mouthfeel with stone fruits (peach) and orchard fruits (apple, pear) alike. Sweetness from the bourbon casks which translates to vanilla and meringue, but there are also subtle oak spices and toasted barley. Water brings out touches of honey, caramel and apricots. Finish: Lingering sweetness, porridge, and soft spices. Pretty long.
Good, but Bruichladdich's bar is high, and I'm not sure this can compete with their Islay Barley or Bere Barley series. The Biodynamic Project is clearly an interesting experiment, but I'll need to try more future releases to decide for myself if I think they are worth the extra effort. We'll see...