Belgium is home to a multitude of small, passionate independent bottlers releasing high-quality malts (and other spirits). The Roots is one such example, and they recently launched two new whiskies from Islay. One a Bruichladdich Rhinns, the other an undisclosed Ardbeg.
We’ve seen more and more of these secret Ardbeg in the last few years, many of them really good, some even outstanding. That’s a good development and may even have a positive effect on Ardbeg’s reputation. Synergy between independent bottlers and distilleries, baby. Who’d a thunk that?
Now, the effect may even be more substantial had Ardbeg allowed those bottlers to use their brand name. Then again, not sure if that would’ve been best for us consumers. Even undisclosed these Ardbeg aren’t cheap, let alone when the distillery is mentioned on the label.
No such issues with Bruichladdich. I’ve never heard of an undisclosed Bruidladdich. You? The Roots‘ Bruichladdich is not your average one. Not that I’m implying there is such a thing as an average Bruichladdich. That’s almost impossible for distilleries with such an outspoken character. Mind you, not all Bruichladdich is good, but at least they’re rarely average.
This is a Bruichladdich Rhinns. As the story goes, only about 250 casks ever were filled with Rhinns spirit. Three batches in total, distilled in 2008, 2009 and 2011. The composition is one-third Bruichladdich and two-thirds Port Charlotte. I have a lot of love for both styles. Does 1 + 1 = 3?
Bruichladdich Rhinns 2011 12 Years (52.3%, The Roots, 199 bts.)
Nose: This very much suits me. As I’ve come to expect from peated Bruichladdich (well, Port Charlotte) this is pleasingly farmy. There’s something slightly lactic about it, but there are also hints of lawn clippings, smoked pineapple and wet wool. Hints of charcoal too, as well as smoked mackerel and barley husks.
Taste: Proper oily mouthfeel. Slightly more coastal and medicinal, but also slivers of creosote, bonfire and smoked peanut skins, as well as nori sheets and cedarwood. Then a sliver of almond paste, some caramel and stewed apples too. Finally a hint of meade.
Finish: Long. A comforting, warming wood smoke, as well as a gentle leafiness and some macadamia nuts.
Secret Islay 2009 14 Years (52.5%, The Roots, 179 bts.)
Nose: Really fresh with hints of petrichor and fresh lemons, as well as hints of cattle feed, soot and diesel. Then a touch of wet pebbles, some chalk and plaster. Tinned peaches as well, then some oysters and fresh sour dough. It’s a puzzle that fits elegantly together.
Taste: A very chiselled malt that highlights its core ingredients. Meaning there’s a smoky maltiness here that I very much appreciate. Balance is provided by a lemon-y influence, as well as hints of green olives, a pinch of salt and a sliver of pink grapefruit. Also touches of seashells and black pepper.
Finish: Very long. Very coastal. A good amount of brine, lemon peel and olive oil, as well as a distinct ashiness. Finally a tinge of mint.
Samples provided by The Roots
