Always a treat to have Bowmore on the tasting table. Today we’ll start with a discontinued expression from the 2000s, the Bowmore Mariner (which is actually 15 years old). Then we’ll follow that up with two vintage 1997 releases. The first “only” a 12-year-old from High Spirits’ Collection, the second a new 27-year-old from Tri Carragh.
Considering its age and when it was bottled, the Bowmore Mariner sits right on the edge of Bowmore’s flower power era in the 1980s. I’ve not tried many Bowmore from that decade, in part because I didn’t exactly felt compelled to. (Although I recently reviewed this oldie from Decadent Drinks.) Then again, whisky is about expanding your horizons, no? Floral Bowmore is part of that, whether I like it or not.
The 1980s notwithstanding, Bowmore is one of my favourite distilleries. I’ve only tried maybe a handful really old vintage Bowmore (1960s), so my fandom is mostly based on the 1990s actually. Although in recent years it’s Bowmore from the early 2000s that has taken the lead. And the fact that young Bowmore from the last decade also performs well, is a comforting thought.
Bowmore Mariner 15 Years (43%, OB, 2000s)
Nose: Quite mineral on the one hand (ozone-esque), but there’s a gentle floral aspect too, as well as a fairly present sherry influence. The soft tropical notes are satisfying, as are the gentle coastal sea spray, damp wood notes and soft eucalyptus. The very light soapiness less so.
Taste: Quite ashy, but also plenty of leafy notes, as well as fennel and, yes, lavender. Also some smoked bacon, milk chocolate and malt. It’s an unusual whisky and the prerequisite balance isn’t quite there.
Finish: Medium length. Quite floral and there’s a modest soapiness too.
Bowmore 1997 12 Years (59.1%, High Spirits’ Collection, C#1893)
Nose: Hints of coastal peat, wet wool and meringues, alongside a sliver of bacon, camphor and nori sheets. Then mostly just orchard fruits, the likes of lemon peel, lime zest and pear skin. Also something slightly farmy, although that might be a step too far. Let’s keep it at cereal notes.
Taste: Creamy, silky mouthfeel, only enhanced after adding water. An arrival of sweet, coastal peat with maybe even a drop of iodine, but certainly a nice salinity and ashy smoke. Also grilled pineapple, charred lemon peel and rock pools.
Finish: Medium length. Touches of white pepper, smoked lemon juice and just a sprinkle of salt.
Bowmore 1997 27 Years (53.1%, Tri Carragh, 144 bts.)
Nose: Rather a lighter, elevated experience compared to it’s younger sibling. There’s a sweetness here, even some floral notes, but also a hint of charcoal and, lest we forget, (very) gentle fruity notes. Think tinned peaches, maybe some fresh pineapple. Then we’re moving on to fresh mineral touches and some light coastal elements.
Taste: Right, this is good. A mixture of seaweed, salt and coastal peat, but with very clear, bright fruits in the background. Not very tropical, which would be ideal, but I’ll gladly settle for sharp citrus notes and a sliver of cherries. Also some pink peppercorns and almost medicinal peat smoke, but subtle, just the way I like it.
Finish: Medium length. A subtle floral notes, slightly spicy and with lingering (preserved) fruits. Also quite a bit of mineral notes.
