The number of Irish distilleries finally releasing their own whiskey is growing. Less sourced whiskey, more of their own distillate. Midway through last year Boann Distillery introduced its first core range of Pot Still Irish Whiskeys. We’ll be trying the Marsala and Madeira today.
Boann Distillery first popped up on my radar because of their Vintage Mashbill project. Check it out if you haven’t heard of it yet. It’s a project at the heart of the struggle to get the Geographical Indication for Irish whiskey changed.
A number of producers would like the GI to reflect the historical diversity of pot still Irish whiskey. Right now single pot still must be made of malted and unmalted barley with a maximum of 5% of the mash bill containing a different unmalted grain. Those who advocate changing the GI are arguing this isn’t historically correct. I’ve previously written about this when reviewing Blackwater’s Dirtgrain Manifesto releases.
Boann Distillery’s trio of Single Pot Still Irish Whiskeys still adhere to the current rules for Irish whiskey. The core mash bill is 40% malt, 50% unmalted barley, 3.75% oats and 1.25% rye. (Check out the excellent Causeway Whiskey for more in-depth information on Boann Distillery.)
Both the Boann Single Pot Still Madeira and Marsala initially matured in ex-bourbon barrels. The Madeira casks were sourced from Justino’s Madeira house, while the Marsala casks are a selection of Superiore and Fine Marsala butts from Cantine de Vinci.
Boann Single Pot Still Marsala Cask (47%, OB, 2024)
Nose: A mixture of fairly prominent hay-like notes, but also cereal notes such as barley husks, which are then complimented by rather bright citrus notes, some gentle oak spices and apricots. Just a pinch of pink peppercorns to round things out.
Taste: A sweet, caramel-like initial first impression, while the texture is pleasantly creamy. Hints of charred oak, some pepper and roasted nuts, but also some green lemons and burnt marshmallows. Finally a faint minty note.
Finish: Medium length with a touch of resin, some cloves and more mint. Finally some jammy apricots, maybe even some honey.
Boann Single Pot Still Madeira Cask (47%, OB, 2024)
Nose: Soft hints of butter, a whisper of cherry blossom and a noticeable note of pear skin and apples. There’s a gentle cereal note lingering in the background, but less prominent than the Marsala edition. Also just a tinge of honey.
Taste: Clean, creamy, viscous. There’s a slight vinous note, quickly overtaken by beeswax, walnuts and apples, but also a sprinkle of aniseed and oak char. Finally a gentle chalkiness as well.
Finish: Medium length. Soft spices (pepper-y rye maybe?) and slightly dry but with a dollop of honey too. Also a hint of marjoram and thyme.
