Big Peat combines the spirit(s) of the Isle of Islay – literally and figuratively. As Fèis Ìle kicks off today, I figured a review of the Big Peat Fèis Ìle 2025, a blended malt containing whiskies from a number if Islay distilleries, would suit the occasion well.
I’m writing this introduction the morning after an event hosted by Cara Laing, managing director of Douglas Laing, the family-run independent bottler responsible for creating Big Peat in 2009. One of the things that stood out is Cara and her family’s fondness for Big Peat. They truly seem to consider the brand a person – referring to it as a “him” within the company.
It’s not just Big Peat who is adored by Douglas Laing. It’s all their Remarkable Regional Malts. Big Peat may have been the firstborn, but Timorous Beastie, Scallywag (modeled after a long line of Laing family Fox Terriers) and the others are all loved too. It can be explained partly because these are all brands with personality, but it’s also to do with Cara’s personal affection for blended malts. “In a way, single casks are easy,” she said. “They’re either ready to be bottled or they’re not. Blended malts take more effort.”
Much like the whisky industry in general, Douglas Laing has historically been more focused on creating larger batches of whisky. Blends, actually. King of Scots probably being the best-known. The current whisky drinker will think of Douglas Laing as an independent bottler. Rightly so, as it became an increasingly important part of the company’s business model from the mid-1990s onwards. Ranges like Old Particular and XOP brought them great success.
But Big Peat and its siblings might be closer to the core of Douglas Laing’s past and current philosophy. It peeves Cara that many people turn up their nose at blended malts, simply because some have a negative connotation with the word blend. Blended malts and blends couldn’t be more different, except that’s not always easy to comprehend for the average consumer, so I sympathise with Cara’s frustration.
I don’t know if there is a solution other than continuing to release quality blended malts. Looking at the specs of the Big Peat Fèis Ìle 2025 there’s no reason to think it won’t be anything other than good. It’s a 2010 vintage matured exclusively in refill hogsheads and bottled at a respectable 50% abv. In other words, mature and spirit-driven.
Big Peat Fèis Ìle 2025 (50%, OB, Douglas Laing)
Nose: Gentle medicinal notes accompanied by green olives, brine and charred lemons, as well as sweet peat, a hint of pineapple and some dried grass. Slightly more coastal, seaweed-y notes after a wee while, but also hints of peanut skins and bonfire smoke (one made from very damp wood).
Taste: Hints of soot, ashes and embers, as well as some vegetal peat smoke. There’s a slight brine-y edge again, followed by licorice root and some white chocolate. Also hints of peaty wash, a sliver of Rauchbier and smoked sausage.
Finish: Medium. Ashy notes linger, as well as a slightly drying sensation and red apple peel.
Sample provided by Douglas Laing
