I first heard about Benromach’s triple distillation experiment when I visited the distillery in early 2014. A few years after my visit the distillery released their first ever Benromach Triple Distilled, and another few years later I finally get to reviewing this peculiar expression. I’m nothing if not topical.
This Benromach was actually triple distilled in 2009—first once in a wash still, and then two more times in a spirit still. After eight years of maturation in first-fill bourbon barrels, Benromach deemed this whisky ready for release.
Benromach 2009 Triple Distilled (50%, OB, 2017)
Nose: This is more tropical than I’m used to from Benromach. Hints of pineapple for example, as well as some orange peel and lemon syrup. There’s some pear skin too, but also a whisper of cardboard and mint. The Benromach smoke is still there, but very much muted. Somewhat waxy.
Taste: Soft peat smoke, a touch of rubber (not very enticing), as well as cardboard and bitter lemon zest. Lacks the oiliness of regular double distilled Benromach, but is surprisingly waxy. Quite active spicy notes, mostly chili pepper.
Finish: Lingering waxiness and fruitiness.
Score: 84
It takes some getting used to. At least it did for me, as I’m so fond of and familiar with Benromach’s regular flavour profile. But after I did I could appreciate what they did here, as long as they also keep distilling that great Benromach 10 Years Old.