I don’t often get the opportunity to review recent releases from Cadenhead’s. But thanks to the Dutch importer, Bresser & Timmer, I can share my thoughts on three recent single malts from the independent bottlers Original Collection, including a Ben Nevis, Tullibardine and Ardmore.
Cadenhead’s has fallen of my radar somewhat, after being one of my favourite independent bottlers for years. I’ve reviewed the odd expression in recent years, but it’s been a while since I bought something. To be fair, I’m not sure Cadenhead’s Original Collection suits me entirely. Their most compelling releases are part of the Authentic Collection, which simply isn’t available where I’m from. I really miss the Small Batch range.
Earlier this year I visited Campbeltown and attended the Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting for the first time in eight years, an experience I once called “the best whisky tasting in the world.” I know times have changed since then, and the whisky industry certainly has, but I wasn’t entirely prepared for this big of a downgrade.
The Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting used to be the cream of the crop. I’m not sure how to put this gently, but today most of the whisky on offer is uninspiring. The whiskies range from 10 to maybe 14 years old – and they’re all finished. They are affordable, so that’s good, but I’m not sure they offer much value for money. Who’s willing to pay 75 quid for a 9-year old Paul John?
(Well, I was, because it was the only whisky that was slightly interesting and I didn’t want to walk out empty-handed. Not sure I’m happy with that decision.)
Admittedly, the whiskies were more expensive in the earlier days of the Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting, starting at 100 pounds and going all the way up to 180 pounds. But they were all truly special whiskies. Single malts that would’ve cost you twice, sometimes three times as much at retail. For example, during my experience in 2016 I bottled a Springbank 1997 for 100 pounds – straight from the cask. Now that’s value for money! To illustrate, around the same time a similarly aged Springbank was released for the Dutch market. It was triple the price of the warehouse cask.
In retrospect Cadenhead’s could’ve offered one or two lesser expensive whiskies during those early Warehouse Tastings. That would’ve created a better balance. Instead of doing just that, they’ve now completely pivoted the other way. You still get to taste six whiskies in total, so why not include two or three slightly older, more unique ones? (And preferably not finished.) I’m sure there are plenty of people like me who are willing to spend a bit more on such whiskies.
And then there’s the venue. The Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting is no longer in an actual warehouse, or at least not one that’s used for ageing other whiskies as well, but instead in a custom space elsewhere in Campbeltown. It doesn’t have the same appeal or romance of a warehouse, let alone that distinct dunnage smell. The new location is a step down and another reason why the tasting has become more pedestrian. The space had a mezzanine on which some of the empty casks from bygone years were stored. I recognised many of them. It was almost like rubbing salt in my wounds.
That experience colours my feelings about Cadenhead’s. The current Original Collection almost feels like an extension of the whiskies on offer at the Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting. They’re mostly on the younger side and often finished, such as the Ardmore (Ruby Port) and Tullibardine (Palo Cortado) below. Even more so, they’re diluted to 46 per cent.
Ben Nevis 2012 11 Years (46%, Cadenhead’s Original Collection, 2024)
Nose: Classic Ben Nevis, just so very recognisable. There’s almost always this dirty edge. Every so slightly. A tinge of copper, that’s usually how it comes across to me. Then also a distinct zesty fruitiness, mostly lime, some cured lemon, and certainly peach too. Maybe even a whiff of agave. Also a whisper of petrichor and a well-defined minerality in general.
Taste: Decent creamy mouthfeel. A hint of brioche, touches of malt, stewed apples and some white pepper. There’s a sliver of gooseberries also, though not the tropical note I had hoped for. Somewhat earthy and decidedly uncommercial.
Finish: Medium length. Green, unripe fruits and lemon liqueur.
Tullibardine 2012 12 Years (46%, Cadenhead’s Original Collection, 2024)
Nose: Slightly closed at first, but it comes around given time. Patience helps. Hints of honeysuckle, as well as Triple Sec, cloves and cherry-flavoured candy canes. Some red forest fruits too, accompanied by sandalwood, custard and fudge.
Taste: It’s not without some oak and the accompanying spices you’d expect, but there’s also a buttery sweetness, dried figs and just a tinge of papaya. Also fennel. Not the most complex though.
Finish: Short to medium. Lingering spices, cocoa powder and nutmeg.
Ardmore 2012 11 Years (46%, Cadenhead’s Original Collection, 2024)
Nose: There’s definitely a vinous quality, but not so much it becomes unacceptable. Hints of smoked raspberries, charcoal and prosciutto. Also some smoked paprika powder, fresh blueberries and watery cassis soda.
Taste: Right, there’s that vinous character again – a sticky mouthfeel that you just don’t get from other cask types. Somewhat ashy, smouldering embers and dark chocolate, but also tobacco and crème de cassis, along with jammy red fruits.
Finish: Medium length. Lingering ashes, kirsch and pepper.
Samples provided by Bresser & Timmer
Photos: Whiskybase