ben nevis 1996 1997 1998 1999 milroy's whisky jury whiskybroker.co.uk review

4x Ben Nevis: Milroy’s / The Whisky Jury / Whiskybroker.co.uk

On today’s menu, Ben Nevis. Four times. All from the mid-to-late 1990s. In other words, the golden years for this distillery. Four different vintages, three different bottlers. Milroy’s of Soho, The Whisky Jury and Whiskybroker (now better known for their label Creetown Distillers).

You know what I recently did? I organised my samples properly. Hundreds and hundreds of samples, now neatly stashed and registered in a spreadsheet. I can filter my samples every which way, which is a godsend. Finally I have a decent overview of every sample I ever collected (and haven’t drunk or reviewed yet).

Now when I buy a new sample or one gets send to me, I’m able to quickly put together a vertical from a distillery. Or create a line-up featuring multiple releases from one single bottler. The possibilities are endless. That’s how I ended up putting together this quartet of Ben Nevis releases.

We’ll be starting with the youngest, a 1999 vintage from Whiskybroker.co.uk that was finished in a Pedro Ximénez cask. Then we’ll gradually work our way down to the 1996 release from Milroy’s of Soho, arguably the greatest vintage from Ben Nevis ever.


ben nevis 1999 19 years whiskybroker.co.uk 312

Ben Nevis 1999 19 Years (46.5%, Whiskybroker.co.uk, C#312)

Nose: Rather a fresher first impression than I expected because of the PX finish. There’s a slight earthiness alongside a pleasant dustiness and just a trademark tinge of copper coins. A hint of oranges, some cherries and yes, also a sliver of raisins. Also cantaloupe, linseed oil and lemons.
Taste: Hints of sandalwood, some salted caramel and sultanas. There’s a sliver of cocoa hiding, as well as a pleasant chalkiness, alongside some other mineral notes. A thin veneer of tropical fruit hides in the background. They never quite make it out though, and they’re slightly candy-esque as well. Sweeter than I’d maybe like. There’s also a touch of char.
Finish: Medium length. Gentle notes of ginger, some cigar boxes as well. The sweet fruits linger.

Conclusion
Certainly enjoyable whisky, and displaying some Ben Nevis characteristics as well, but I expect this to be an aperitif. Really good, but in this lineup it serves more as wake-up call for the taste buds. And I say that with all due respect.
8.6

ben nevis 1998 24 years milroy's of soho 1219

Ben Nevis 1998 24 Years (46.8%, Milroy’s of Soho, C#1219)

Nose: Immediately quite mineral, somewhat chalky and with a touch of beeswax, but there’s also soft hints of coconut, quinces, Galia melon and vanilla custard. Just a sliver of gentle floral notes, but also some cooked fruits and a sliver of yellow plums. Quite luscious.
Taste: A mixture of soft oak influences, subtle grassy notes and just a tinge more of that beeswax as well. A fair amount of oranges, but also some nectarines, a good bit of vanilla and aromatic gorse. Just a tinge of white pepper, like the tiniest sprinkle.
Finish: Medium length. A hint of fruity tea, nutmeg and orchard fruits.

Conclusion
Wonderful whisky that, while not quintessential Ben Nevis, certainly does have more of an old school, waxy style true to its age, but mostly is an attest of the quality spirit made in this Fort William distillery.
8.8

ben nevis 1997 27 years the whisky jury 52

Ben Nevis 1997 27 Years (43.5%, The Whisky Jury, C#52)

Nose: I used to almost disregard Ben Nevis if there were any signs of a dirty edge. Now I almost miss it when there’s a Ben Nevis without it. This one has it, and I’m almost surprised by how happy that makes me. There’s more to it though, with apricots, nectarines and peaches as well. Hints of chalk, maybe even some liquorice root, and then finally some beeswax too.
Taste: Thick, syrupy, waxy mouthfeel. Superbly pleasant. Plenty of fruits, more stone fruits and orchard fruits, not so much very tropical. But also very earthy, chalky and mineral-forward. There might even be a tinge of peat.
Finish: Medium length. Gentle tobacco notes, hints of sandalwood, an herbacious earthiness and jammy fruits.

Conclusion
Couldn’t ask for much more. Decidedly uncommercial, yet totally amazing spirit. And best of all, completely different from the other vintages I’m tasting today.
9.1

ben nevis 1996 27 years milroy's of soho 1761

Ben Nevis 1996 27 Years (46.5%, Milroy’s of Soho, C#1761)

Nose: Bursting with tropical fruits. Think mango, guava, papaya and grapefruit, but also again a distinct waxiness stands out. No sign of any dirtiness or metallic notes, often a hallmark of Ben Nevis, but lesser so at an advanced age. I do get some gentle leafy floral notes. Also grilled pineapples and some crème brûlée. Very convincing.
Taste: Whoomp! There it is, just a tropical attack we’ve come to expect from the 1996 vintage. Stone fruits galore. Juicy, luscious, quite simply everything I expected and hoped for. Just a hint of chalk also. The syrupy, waxy mouthfeel only adds to the enjoyment.
Finish: Medium to long. Mouthcoating tropical goodness with a slight herbal edge there at the end.

Conclusion
What a whisky! One of those desert island drams. Tropical fruit notes are one of the highest attainable flavour characteristics in whisky. Not seen often at this level, making it that much more of a treat.
9.2

Photo’s: WhiskyAuctioneer

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