I went and visited Dornoch in October and brought home a few souvenirs, including some samples from recent releases by the Thompson Bros. First, a Teithmill 2014 10 Years, which is actually an undisclosed Deanston. Second, a Ben Nevis from 1996, a vintage universally adored.
Simon and Phil Thompson (indeed, the Thompson Bros) are busy turning Dornoch into an absolute must-visit whisky destination. It’s a process that has been going for decades, starting with the Dornoch Castle Whisky Bar, which they transformed into one of the best whisky bars of Scotland (and the world by proxy).
The next stage was Dornoch Distillery. Or was it their independent bottling arm? Either way, both ventures have been a success. So much so they’re now building a new distillery in Dornoch. And I almost forgot, but they opened a bottle shop as well.
Should you ever be up in the Northern Highlands, you just can’t skip Dornoch. If only for a dram in the bar.
Teithmill 2014 10 Years (54.2%, Thompson Bros, 299 bts.)
Nose: A clear malty backbone emerges from the glass immediately, accompanied by brioche, buttery croissants and yeast. Then some hints of roasted peanuts, a light floral note and ripe bananas.
Taste: This is Deanston alright. Proper mouthfeel, almost waxy. Cereals and walnuts with feint bready notes and sweet vanilla custard, but also some brighter citrus influence and tree bark. Finally a soft herbaceousness as well. Maybe almost some mustard seeds as well.
Finish: Medium length. Porridge, a touch of liquorice and honey.
Ben Nevis 1996 28 Years (47.8%, Thompson Bros, C#1166)
Nose: I’ve grown to enjoy Ben Nevis’ dirty edge, but I’m never disappointed if I don’t find these typical notes. This mature 1996 vintage is simply focused on an array of citrus fruits. Oranges mainly, but also Meyer lemons, pomelos, tangerines and grapefruit. There’s a soft hint of chalk too, then distant notes of dark caramel, some wet pebbles and something slightly umami-ish as well.
Taste: Everything you’d hope for. An abundance of wax, some juicy red grapes, more grapefruit, then mango too, and some pomelos to top things off. Just a tiny pinch of pepper, but also just more tropical fruits. Don’t know what else to ask for, really.
Finish: Medium to long. A slight bitter edge, but also a tinge of sponge cake, red berries and coffee grounds. Just a soft whisper of eucalyptus there in the end too.
Samples provided by Thompson Bros
Photos: Royal Mile Whiskies
