It’s been almost five years since Auchentoshan last featured on these pages. And I’ve never reviewed the Auchentoshan 12 Years, arguably the distillery’s flagship expression. Maybe there’s a reason for that?
Auchentoshan’s claim to fame is that they’re the one distillery in Scotland to triple distil their entire output. As a consequence, their new make spirit sits at an impressive 81%, much higher than the average Scottish distillery. It’s an interesting distinction and a unique selling point they’ve wholeheartedly embraced. The distillery happily emphasizes triple distillation is more time-consuming, more expensive, and absolutely unique. Which isn’t false. But triple distillation isn’t better (or worse). It’s just a different method.
Anyway, reading between the lines, you might get the feeling I’m not particularly enamoured by Auchentoshan. And you would be right. This is a distillery that hasn’t yet won me over. The triple distillation is interesting, but I struggle to find other hooks. And yet, it’s a hugely successful brand that’s in the Top 20 best-selling Scotch single malts in the world. There is an audience for their lighter, accessible style. I’m just not sure if I am part of that audience.
Without further ado, here are my thoughts on the Auchentoshan 12 Years. Matured in… Who knows? I can’t find any information anywhere.
Auchentoshan 12 Years (40%, OB, 2022)
Nose: Light grassy, floral notes with a touch of cereals, caramel, some yellow apple and a whiff of honey, but also just some faint lemon zest and cardboard. I’m not against this at all.
Taste: Gentle would be the polite description. But weak is probably more honest. Quite a bit of honey, some caramel, and a hint of oak spices. But it all fades very quickly.
Finish: Short. Ginger, baking spices and fudge.