Another day, another Ardbeg. They keep popping up like weeds, don’t they? Except much tastier. Today I’m reviewing the Ardbeg Anthology 14 Years – The Unicorn’s Tale, which aged in a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-Madeira casks.
The Unicorn’s Tale is the second release in Ardbeg’s Anthology Collection, a range featuring the more experimental side of the distillery. Each whisky is named after a different mythological creature. Here’s what Dr Bill Lumsden, Ardbeg’s Director of Whisky Creation, has to say about it:
“At Ardbeg we love to experiment with how we can push our spirit’s smoky balance into new worlds of flavour. Some time ago, we decided to try maturing Ardbeg in unusual cask types for the distillery to create sweet and smoky ‘hybrids’ – and so the Anthology Collection was born.”
Ardbeg are no stranger to hyperbole. Yes, legendary can mean from a legend, which I’m sure is how they justify this year’s marketing line, “The legendary Ardbeg Anthology Collection.” Or last year The Harpy’s Tale was dubbed “The first legendary edition in the Ardbeg Anthology.” But I’m confident the other meaning of legendary, very famous and admired, is embraced here as well.
But Ardbeg’s Anthology Collection is still some ways removed from legendary status. (And won’t likely every reach it.) Not many whiskies, let alone whisky series, can claim such a lofty standing. Well, they can claim it, but it wouldn’t be true. In the case of the Anthology Collection, The Harpy’s Tale is still widely available a year after its release. That’s not the stuff of legends.
I hope Ardbeg Anthology 14 Years – The Unicorn’s Tale awaits a different fate, but I’m doubtful. Why didn’t the previous release sell? I thought it was really good. And you’d be hard-pressed to find a more affordable Ardbeg WITH an age statement (the Ardbeg Ten not withstanding).
It could be a sign of Ardbeg fatigue. More likely, it’s a sign of the times. Strong inflation and higher cost of living. People have less to spend. Or are less willing to spend. Either way, the spirits market feels the effects too.
Ardbeg Anthology 14 Years – The Unicorn’s Tale (46%, OB, 2024)
Nose: Very coastal and undeniably peaty (duh). A few drops of iodine, some fresh seaweed and some burnt rubber as well. Initially chargrilled lemon peel as well, as well as lemon balm, but then also some sweet tropical influences. Think guava, mango, and the like. The peat evolves into more elegant wood smoke, alongside tinges of sandalwood.
Taste: Slightly thinner than I’d like. Some medicinal peat, as well as grilled fennel. There’s a touch of smoked kiwi, tinned peaches and more of those lemons as well. Also a nice salinity, some aniseed and soot, accompanied by roasted malts.
Finish: Medium length. A good amount of lingering wood smoke. Slightly dry. Cloves. Somewhat medicinal.
