We’re visiting three distilleries on Islay’s south coast today, but it’s kind of a secret mission – all these releases are from undisclosed producers. But heck, I’m no James Bond (and I’m also not overprotective of brand names), so I’ll tell you exactly what we’re up to.
First we’ll take a closer look at the new undisclosed Laphroaig from Wu Dram Clan. This 34-year-old ex-bourbon matured whisky was sourced from the stocks of Signatory Vintage. Then it’s onwards to an Ardbeg matured for 16 years in a sherry butt and bottled by Liquid Art.
Finally we visit Lagavulin. Or at least that’s where the Cadenhead’s Enigma 15-year-old is rumoured to have been distilled. Like the Laphroaig it matured in an ex-bourbon cask.
Islay (La) 1990 34 Years (51.7%, Signatory Vintage for ‘Wu Dram Clan’, C#4342)
Nose: She’s beauty and she’s grace. The elegance of mature Islay whisky never ceases to amaze. There’s a combination of lemon, maybe some nectarines, and also a touch of green pineapple. Mellow bonfire notes then join in, as well as hints of green tea and Acacia honey. Very convincing.
Taste: Right, immediately a quick hit of tropical notes, but then its onwards towards wood spice alongside saline notes and lemon pith. There’s a moderate smokiness/peatiness and a hint of crème caramel, toffee and a slight leafy touch. Finally a whisper of mint.
Finish: Medium to long. Slightly briny, certainly lemon-y and mildly peaty.
Kildalton 2008 16 Years (52.1%, Liquid Art ‘Celebrating the Shops’, 2024)
Nose: Touches of charcoal, smoked strawberries and diesel, as well as nori sheets. Slightly earthy too, followed by smoked paprika powder and a hint of charred orange peel. There’s also a slight sulphury note lingering in the background, but of the variety that doesn’t detract but enhances.
Taste: Hints of teak wood with some light notes of rubber, as well as peat smoke, aniseed and tar. Also sliver of cigar boxes, brine and cough syrup. Touches of bonfire too, as well as kippers and hints of cracked black peppercorns.
Finish: Long with a combination of tarry smoke and delicate sweetness from the cask.
Enigma 15 Years Islay Single Malt (54.8%, Cadenhead’s, 2024)
Nose: Extremely crisp and pure. Generous notes of overripe banana with hints of chalk and freshly squeezed lemons, as well as a mild mineral influence alongside soot, smoked fish and some white pepper. Just a very precise, clean nose.
Taste: Opening on notes of smoked barley husks, peanut skin and charred lemon peel. Then a pinch of white pepper, olive brine and apple, as well as ashes and smouldering embers. Also a sliver of gingerbread and sandalwood.
Finish: Medium to long. Hints of ashes, some smoked apples and pepper.
Samples provided by Bimber
